…and now for something completely different…
At dawn
Canoe bow waves are quickly lost
on the shoreside
But go on out of sight
on the lake side.
-1986
The constant swish-swish of skis
On a day long ski.
The constant swish-swish of wiper blades
On a day long drive.
-1990
My dog, trotting barefoot
Steps on a garden slug
And thinks
Nothing of it.
-1999
Word spreads quickly
as I approach the pond.
All becomes quiet.
-1997
Hidden in the vines
a large warted cucumber
jumps out of reach.
A toad!
-1997
Delicate puffs
of marshmallow snow
carefully perched
on a branch,
await the trigger of my hat
to melt their way down my back.
-2010
Deep in the tomato jungle
Fruits of yellow, purple and red
Tell of their readiness
To go to market.
-2010
Sugarin' Chores
Snowflakes hurry through my flashlight beam,
As my boots knead new snow with spring mud,
On my nightly Hajj to keep the boil alive,
For as long as possible until the dawn,
To match the power of the flowing sap,
With my meager evaporator and will.
The prize at the finish line are jars of syrup
And Spring.
-2013
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Heirloom Vegetable Workshop
Saturday, 21-Jan-2012, Dexter
Presenter: Tom Roberts, Snakeroot Organic Farm in
Pittsfield. www.snakeroot.net
Sponsor: Dexter-Dover Area Towns in Transition
(DDATT) dexterareatransition@gmail.com
- WHAT ARE HEIRLOOM VEGETABLES?
-
You can think of heirlooms as the antiques of the vegetable trade.
Exactly what is and what is not an heirloom can be almost as
difficult to define as what is and is not an antique. Generally
heirlooms do have a few things in common: they are open pollinated
(that is, they are not hybrids), they have been saved by some group
of people for generations because of some of their good qualities,
and they come in a bewildering array of choices. Like an antique, a
real heirloom should have a minimum of a 50-100 year history because
people who love it have been saving it at least that long. Heirlooms
have been saved for all sorts of different qualities . . . if you
were saving seeds from your garden plants, what qualities would you
be selecting for? Probably some combination of flavor, color, size,
earliness, lateness, hardiness, lack of stringiness, resistance to
drought and disease, yield, storage ability, and other such
qualities.
-
- Hybrids (F1) vs. Open Pollinated (OP): Whenever you see
“F1” next to a variety name, this means that variety is
a hybrid. A hybrid is a human-done crossing of two varieties of the
same species, using the same pollination techniques the plant
normally uses, except now we determine which two particular parent
varieties are crossed. This is done by hand with a Q-tip, and is
very labor-intensive. The offspring, the “first filial”
or F1, is a new variety with predictable qualities. The second
generation (“F2”) will display huge variations and is
why saving seeds from hybrids is usually not done. Not until the
seventh generation (“F7”) will the variety again become
stable.
-
- Open pollinated means we let nature take its course, and
the plant reproduces without human interference. With some plants
this produces wild new varieties; these are the “out-crossers”
whose flowers tend to share pollen, and hence genes, with flowers of
plants of the same species. Other plants will produce flowers that
tend to self pollinate (“the “selfers”),
and thus the parent's genetic makeup is preserved unchanged into the
next generation.
-
- “Open pollinated” doesn't necessarily mean
“heirloom”, but most heirlooms are open pollinated.
- Some heirloom vegetables may have many more qualities that
irk the gardener than the more recent introductions do. Some
heirlooms have not been significantly improved over their history,
while other have been vastly improved and considerably diversified.
- WHY GROW HEIRLOOMS?
-
Compared to hybrids, heirlooms provide an amazingly wide variety
of choices, each of which has been preserved for generations by
amateur seed savers because it provided certain qualities they
treasured. Since seed saving and variety selection is a world-wide
phenomenon, heirlooms often present us with the widest range of
genetic variation within each vegetable.
- Since heirlooms are self-pollinated, they do not require costly
hybridization procedures, and hence their cost of production is
among the lowest for that type of veggie. This low cost also
means they are less attractive for the big seed companies to keep
them in their catalogs, since less money can be made on them. Often
growers like myself will buy them once, and if we like them we
simply save our own seed, never to buy them again. Fortunately there
is a new breeds of seed companies and seed saving organizations that
are looking to preserve the genetic heritage represented by
heirlooms rather than looking to make the most money by producing
seeds that growers must re-purchase every growing season. Therefore
heirlooms are far more widely available today than they have ever
been.
-
- Growing each heirloom variety also connects us with the long
history of the people who developed that variety. Even though
their actual identity may be long lost to history, their work lives
on in that heirloom. Our admiration of and gratitude for that work
is displayed whenever we plant the seeds resulting from their
labors.
-
- RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
-
Two factors have increased the availability of heirloom
varieties in the past 30 years. One is a general increase in the
public's appreciation of the wider variety of shapes, sizes, colors,
textures and flavors that heirloom varieties provide. The other is
an avalanche of new trade between heirloom seed savers in the former
Soviet Bloc and those in the West. And of course these two phenomena
grow with each another through mutual feedback loops.
-
- Tomatoes: are selfers, so 95%+ of saved seed
will be true to variety. Everyone must try Brandywine, the original,
pink one. Maybe a paste tomato like Hogheart, or a cherry tomato
like Black Cherry. Read over the catalog descriptions because what
heirloom you wind up liking best all depends on what color, shape,
size, and flavor that YOU want to bring in from your garden next
summer. Stick with under 90-100 days, for Sept ripening.
-
Lettuces include many fascinating varieties
besides the common iceberg. Lettuces are crossers, which results in
a bewildering array of varieties and traits, including butterheads
(Bibbs), romaines, icebergs, loose leafs, summer crisps, and
oakleafs, all of which are available in red and green and everything
in between. Forellenschluss, Slobolt, Red Salad Bowl, Winter
Density, Red Iceberg and Outredgeous are among our favorites.
-
Garlic The Rocamboles, or stiff-neck varieties
have the strongest and most complex flavors. They are most similar
to the original wild garlics from central Asia. Good varieties to
plant are Red German (a purple skinned type, 6-8 cloves per bulb),
and German Extra Hardy (white porcelain type, 4 cloves per bulb).
Garlic never produces true seed, so we need to plant pieces (cloves)
of edible garlic to get more garlic (bulbs). An October planting
will yield far bigger bulbs at August harvest than will a spring
planting.
-
Lupines are in the bean family, so they produce
their seeds in pods. Lupines are crossers, so saved seed will
produce new and often interesting blossom colors. Seed needs to go
through a wet and frozen cycle in order to germinate, so plant in
late fall or very early spring for best germination. Russell Strain
is the multi-colored lupine we grow, but single color lupines of all
types are available.
-
Butternut squash is the tan, bell shaped squash.
These are unrelated to (that is, a different species than) most
other common winter squashes grown in this latitude, so the fact
that squashes are crossers means little since this far north there
aren't any other varieties butternut will cross with. Planting seed
from an OP variety will guarantee similar offspring, but planting
seed from hybrids will give you a wide variety of butternuts.
Waltham Butternut is the most famous old-time butternut.
-
- WHERE TO PURCHASE HEIRLOOMS
-
Seedlings:
- Local growers at a farmers' market or farm
stand. (Not all heirlooms are available as transplants, some need
direct seeding.)
-
Some seed catalogs offer southern grown
seedlings, bare root and ready to plant.
-
- Seeds: Each company has it's own
unique focus. We order from all these listed, but there are dozens
more.
-
Johnny's Selected Seeds, Albion (farm) and
Winslow (store/warehouse). Very informative catalog, great service.
Worker-owned company. Some heirlooms and some organic seeds.
-
High Mowing Seeds, Wolcott, VT. Started from a
small farm, all organic varieties, many heirlooms.
- Fedco, Clinton, divisions: Seeds, Tubers,
Trees, Bulbs, and Organic Growers Supply. Oddball ordering system,
each division has its own schedule, very inexpensive, very
informative B&W catalog, a co-op. Specializes in heirlooms,
offers many grown organically.
-
Seed Savers Exchange, a worldwide collection of
small scale seed savers who finally put out a catalog a few years
back. Good pics, many varieties found nowhere else.
-
Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, Mansfield, MO. GREAT
BIG detailed catalog pics, all heirlooms.
-
Local Growers will often sell a few varieties of
seed they save themselves. Ask them! Most are happy to share.
-
- HOW TO SAVE SEEDS
- I will focus here on tomatoes, butternut squash,
garlic, lettuce, lupines, and maybe a few others if there's time.
- EASY-to-save seeds.
-
Tomatoes: squish, add water, ferment for a week,
pour off slop, add more water, pour off until clear. Good seed sinks
to the bottom. Dry seed on newspaper in front of a fan for 2-3 days,
then break up seed clumps, label with variety and year. Tomato seed
may be kept for up to ten years.
-
- Butternut squash, the tan, bell shaped
winter squash, is the only one of the squashes that it's safe to
save seed from, since it doesn't cross with the other squashes. If
the variety was an F1 hybrid, your butternuts may not all look
alike, but they'll all be butternuts. Butternut squash seed may be
kept 2-5 years.
-
- Garlic: Doesn't use flowers at all, so never
swaps genetic material between plants. Vegetative reproduction means
garlic gets acclimated to where it's growing over several
generations, so choose locally grown garlic whenever possible.
Edible garlic and seed garlic are the same thing, except that seed
garlic is generally freer of garlic diseases. Break the garlic bulb
into cloves and plant cloves six inches apart. Every clove planted
produces a bulb. Plant in October, harvest in late July. All your
seed garlic must be planted every year, it will not keep a year.
-
- Lettuce: An out-crosser, so varieties will
not stay true. However, that's how new varieties are born! No matter
what the next generation turns out like, it may be a perfectly fine
lettuce. To keep from crossing with other varieties lettuce can be
isolated by either time or space. To isolate in time means to make
sure it goes to seed before any other lettuce could possibly be
flowering, perhaps by starting it extra early in the house or
greenhouse. Any garden lettuce, after it bolts, produces a three
foot tall stalk and a seed head reminiscent of dandelions with seeds
suspended from wispy parachutes. Collect seeds before they blow
away, and when very dry rub them between your hands, then carefully
winnow out the “parachutes” and chaff. Because lettuces
go to seed so early, seed gathered from an early planting of lettuce
can be planted later that same year. Lettuce seed may be kept a
maximum of a year or two.
-
- Lupines: An out-crosser, meaning color will
never stay true. But usually all colors are beautiful, so unless
you're trying for a narrow color scheme, then saving lupine seeds is
fairly easy. When the pods that replace the blossoms mature to a
dark brown of black color (usually early August but varies widely),
clip off whole seed stalk and keep in a paper bag for a month
indoors to dry out. Then pop the pods to obtain two to seven
BB-sized seeds per pod. Winnow in front of a fan or outdoors on a
windy day to separate the chaff from seed. Lupine seed can be kept
for several years.
-
- HARD to save seeds:
- For some crops seed saving is very difficult, due
to two major difficulties.
-
- Biennials only go to seed the second year:
leeks, carrots, beets, parsnips, cabbage, onion, scallions, celery &
celeriac, chard, kale, and others. In our climate, they need to be
harvested, stored for the winter and re-planted in the spring. Seed
stalks appear by early June, after which the plant starts to look
very little like it did in its first year.
-
- Out-Crosser refers to a plant that
vigorously crosses with any variety in the same species, either via
wind or insect pollinators. In order to keep the variety true, these
need 1/2 to 1 mile isolation OR at least a week difference in
flowering time from any other varieties in the species. Peppers, all
squashes, all cukes, all melons, all corns, lupines, lettuces,
- Seeds may be saved & replanted without such
isolation, but with no guarantee of what you'll get, perhaps a
zumpkin, a thimble-sized pepper, a new lettuce variety, or a new
color of lupine.
-
- Non-Seeds:
-
Many common garden vegetables are not planted from true
seed. Some plants reproduce vegetatively as well as producing seeds,
while others reproduce vegetatively only. Potatoes, sunchokes,
ginger, garlic, shallots and onions (if by sets), gladiolus, and
tulips are examples of plants where we generally plant vegetative
parts rather than true seeds, either because true seed is never
available (example: garlic), or because planting true seed will give
us unpredictable results (example: potatoes).
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